Week 111 May 14, 2016

Last month my brother emailed for my birthday and included:
     “I know you are enjoying life and seeing our world for yourself
     so I know you are happy.”
Yes! This week, as his older daughter graduated with a master’s degree, he wrote again,
     “What an amazing journey you guys are taking.”
Yes!! We have such gratitude for our adventure, and for this opportunity to fulfill our 25 year dream to travel the world. I am also grateful for the technology that allowed me to watch my niece walk across the stage and to capture this photo of the event. Thank you to all our family and friends who follow along and support us!
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With new friends from the Netherlands who were staying at our same agriturismo in Sardegna – Sardinia, we drove to Teulada for their la prima volta – the first time, annual community hike. The commune – municipality, was expecting somewhere between 100-400 people to show up. But… the weather was uncooperative. The rocky path would have been slippery, so the hike was canceled for the 50 or so people who showed up. Before we all left, we heard brief speeches from the mayor and a community leader in the church that was our meeting place.
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Loren and I drove through the interior of southern Sardinia on our way toward Barisardo on the eastern coast. Sardinia’s extreme winding roads traverse tall rugged mountains. This island seems sparsely populated compared to Sicily or the continent.I still regret not stopping to photo the contrasting rows of lush spring green vineyards growing in rich dark soil in the foreground, with, a square orchard of dark green trees equally spaced, standing above and behind them in a sandy brown uphill terrain. I did stop to photograph some of the fragrant lilac, hibiscus and rose, as well as poppies, mustard, oleander, scotch pine… among so much more beautiful blossoming vegetation.
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In one mountain town, we visited Stazione dell’Arte – Station of the Art, a small museum showing some of the artist Maria Lai’s work. I appreciated this quite of hers:
     L’uomo ha bisogno di mettere insieme il visibile e l’invisibile,
     percio inventa fiabe, leggende, canti, arte. 
     Man needs to put together the visible and the invisible,
     therefore he invents fairy tales, legends, songs, art.
We had the museum and guide all to ourselves, so spent more time here than we imagined. It was worth it – her multimedia art and her life story are intriguing!
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Sardinia is known for its beaches and red rocks. Therefore we visited a few beaches and found they have lots of red rocks, some in still water, some in surf. The weather has been overcast making it feel dreary, but despite that we still had a pleasant time.
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Probably our most memorable event here was the one evening when we had our first ever taste of tripe. Our agriturismo host claimed it is her favorite dish, and, said that she understands how if we did not grow up eating it, that one taste would be enough. On the topic of eating, every night since we have returned to Italy, at the end of the day we feel overstuffed on those days when we are not cooking for ourselves. Yet we somehow forget that and again eat too much the next day. The courses – vegetable, meat and cheese items for antipasto; pasta course, meat course, cheese, wine, fruit, desert, after dinner cordials – they are all delicious, and demand a few hours at the dinner table. I am trying to learn to pace myself, to take smaller portions… As one food establishment makes clear with its name, we are in Eatily!
Loren and I left Sardegna on a midweek flight. Back on the mainland we picked up a rental car, and spent one night in Bologna. Our mother and daughter AirBnB hosts graciously took us on a two hour walking tour to view notable sights in the city center – from 10pm-midnight!
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The next morning Loren and I drove to Tordandrea for two nights, in the vibrant valley just below Assisi. We had two long visits to that historic spiritual hillside town, famed home of the medieval Saints, Francesco – Francis and Chiara – Clare. There is so much preserved ancient and medieval history to be found here, for example, the Roman Temple of Minerva, Chiesa di San Damiano, Catedrale di San Rufino, Basilica di Santa Chiara, and so much more. By far, the most captivating were the many tributes to San Francesco all around Assisi, as well as in the valley town called Santa Maria Degli Angeli – Saint Mary of the Angels. Here, an impressive Basilica surrounds the original very simple chapel where Francis lived during the final years of his life.
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We spent the most time in Assisi visiting Basilica di San Francesco. I was moved on several occasions while learning more about him. To honor his life, the Basilica is like a magnificent museum, with “No fotos” allowed inside. Both a lower, older Basilica with a simple subterranean crypt for his remains, and, another partial even lower floor displays precious relics from his lifetime. Then there is an upper, more elaborate and newer Basilica built on top of the older one, that contains powerful and enormous wall frescoes to portray major events from the lives of both Jesus and Saint Francis. The pax – peace, that Francis stood for was palpable. It was even punctuated with a fabulous rainbow at the end of our day!
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We have had fairly continual overcast, rainy weather, even a thunder and lightning storm at the end of our next visit, which was to stunning Sienna. Here we saw the dazzling Duomo, cozy Piazza del Campo, and several of the walled city gates.
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As we were leaving Sienna, I just had to pull over to take a photo of the name of the church that I found just outside one of the gates:
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     “Our Lady of Good Travel, Accompany Me.”
And so she has thus far. We are now in a small town partway towards Florence, before our return to Bologna tomorrow to meet up with friends.

Week 110 May 7, 2016

May 1st was Labor Day and May Day – another holiday in Italy. Our plan to take a bus to see Ragusa on Sicilia – Sicily, for the day was not a viable option, because no buses were operating. We decided that the city of Modica had enough to satisfy our interests instead of trying to seek other transportation. Our host first took us to his neighbor’s multi-generational cheese business – of about 300 years operation. When Loren inquired, the father’s favorite part of the work is all of it!
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The eldest son has a preference for the animals – like bringing the 40 cows in to be milked. This farm has a barn with the fattest hens, which are in stark contrast to so many of the chickens roaming around Africa being the skinniest, that I have ever seen. 
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Then Loren and I took two different two-hour walking tours around the steep and flat streets of the citta – city, as written up by the Tourist Information office. These offered us opportunities for more belvedere – beautiful views, and to visit places of local interest.
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The next day we left Modica by bus, train, then bus again to arrive in Agrigento. Here we saw Valle dei Templi – Valley of the Temples, where we found more ruins of ancient Greek culture in Sicily.
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We had a memorable dinner at the very nice restaurant of a friend of our AirBnB host.
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We also this week visited Scala dei Turchi – Turkish steps, carved by waves against stark white cliff rock. It was during our taxi ride there that I noticed graffiti proclaiming: TUTTI DIVERSI, TUTTI UGALI. I may not fully understand the meaning but definitely like the idea: all are unique, all are equal! It reminds me of the first Unitarian Universalist principle: The inherent worth and dignity of every person…
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Reluctantly, we caught our bus for the long ride to the airport, which was back in Catania where we began our visit to Sicily.
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Our evening flight brought us safely to Cagliari on the island of Sardinia. We were grateful that we had had the fairly good weather day on Mt. Etna when we were in Catania before… who knew it would soon feel like winter again in May in Sicily? Fortunately the weather is warmer now in Sardegna – Sardinia.
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We picked up a rental car, and, with the agent’s urging, followed a different route than Loren had mapped out. We must have missed a turn, stopped for directions and wound up driving a good hour in pitch dark along a winding, mountainous dirt road. We saw a few animals dart from one side to the other in front of us, and were glad our high beams illuminated the deer far enough ahead. Fortunately on the other side of the mountain our cell phone worked again and our agriturisma host offered to meet us in the town of Santadi to lead us to her farm in Su Benatzsu. Tutto buona  – all is good! This is our first agriturisma, of a few where we will stay in Sardinia. At this particular one they have vineyards, vegetables, 300 sheep, 200 goats, among hogs, roosters, chickens, numerous dogs and puppies. The goats are milked daily – the sheep are milked twice daily!
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We definitely know we are back in Italy from these generous piatti – plates, that are just the antipasto to our dishes to come – of pasta, meat and dolce – literally sweet or what Americans would call desert.
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We have enjoyed having our rental car which allowed us to visit a few of the surrounding communities and seaside towns. Porto Botte, Isola di Sant’Antiocio, Calasetta, Nora, Pula, and Teulada are the main ones we have visited so far. Yesterday we found a farmer’s land with what conveys a creative sense of humor. I think the standing cyclist bears a slight resemblance to Loren, who very much misses having his bicycle on our journey…
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Pula was of special interest for its many streets being decorated overhead with strings and strings colorful banners to celebrate Sant’Efisio. We just missed the actual Festa on May 1 but marveled at the delightful appearance of the streets. 
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Tomorrow we will join some of the locals who we had met when we stopped for gelato – Italian ice cream, for a two hour hike near Teulada before we leave the community of Santali. Maybe we can walk off just a little bit of what we have consumed…
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REPOSTING in Progress: Weeks 2 to 109

This place holder is for the entries from our original blog to be added, eventually. Please check back – this re-creation is a labor of Love and will take a bit of  t-i-m-e- which, while still traveling, we do not always have a lot available to devote to this.

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Week 1 April 5, 2014

Our Journey began in earnest earlier today, April 5. Loren and I finished the big job of sorting our household belongings to keep in storage, wrapped up all we would take with us in our packed-to-the-gills van, and set off for my Birthday / our Bon Voyage Bash.

We were off to a bit of a hairy start when just as we were about to leave I misplaced my keys, delaying our departure for a while. Then, Loren’s car had a dead battery! AAA came to rescue and we were still able to enjoy lunch out with a good friend and his daughter – an adult now and who was the Flower Girl at our wedding, who had helped us with the final household packing. We were then also able to keep our early afternoon commitment to host a Stop Hunger Now Meal Packaging Event, which was the main part of our Bash.

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Thank you to the approximately 75 people who attended to help bag more than 10,000 packages of food, to those who sent contributions, to those who sent well wishes, and to those who brought food – and a birthday cake (!) – for the potluck following the main event. A very special thanks to our many friends who helped and supported us so much along the way as we prepared for this Journey. It was wonderful to have so many hugs today, and to receive encouragement from so many people who we care for deeply.

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Tonight, Loren and I are houseguests of our minister, as the new tenants moved into our home this afternoon. I realized while preparing for bed that staying where we are tonight is a privilege we would not have had if we had continued to live day to day in San Jose.

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There is so much more to say, but, after only 3 hours of sleep last night and a tremendously satisfying, though long day, it is now time for bed.

Good Night, Sweet Dreams!
Love,
Claire

 

To Our Loved Ones

Dear Family and Friends,

As we were preparing to leave home, some of you asked,
“Will you be on FaceBook?”
We replied, “No.”
“So will you have a blog?”
“No,” our answer again.

One friend however felt it necessary for us to have a blog, took the initiative, and went home to create this. Voila! All we had to do was learn how to make posts to it. Thank you, our friend!

We invite all to join us vicariously here, as we begin our Journey Toward Wholeness,
Claire & Loren

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